1999 Volunteer Leadership Training Guide
Caring for Textile Heirlooms
Handout 1
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Heat and Humidity
• Light
• Insects
• Pollutants
• Storage
• Display
• Cleaning •
Source for Acid-Free
Materials
Proper care is important at all stages in the life of a textile we want to
preserve. While most of us recognize the importance of proper care for old
textiles, we seldom consider that new textiles require the same care if they are
to look good when they are old.
While we have a natural desire to touch fabric – to caress its silky
smoothness or rub its fuzzy woolen surface – this very touch is one of the
greatest threats to its life. The touch of our hands can leave oils, grime and
dirt on the surface of a fabric. Over time these substances become embedded in
the fibers, causing them irreparable damage.
The first and best rule for preserving the life of a fabric is to avoid all
unnecessary handling. If a fabric must be handled, make sure hands are clean and
dry. Wash your hands often, or better yet, wear white cotton gloves to avoid
depositing oil from the hands on the surface of the fabric. Never wear jewelry
when handling or constructing textile items. Pronged rings, dangling pendants or
charms and metal watchbands may snag or tear fibers. Belt buckles, plastic tags,
buttons and even loose sleeves can cause permanent abrasion. Fingernails should
be trimmed short. Avoid using hand lotions and bath oils when handling textiles.
In addition to limiting handling, the preservation of textile keepsakes and
heirlooms involves an understanding of the ways heat, humidity, light, insects
and product pollutants cause permanent damage to textiles.
Heat and Humidity
Moist air, warmth and lack of air circulation encourage growth of mold which
can stain fibers and cause deterioration. Inspect textiles regularly for mildew.
A relative humidity of approximately 50 percent and temperatures of 60 to 65
degrees are generally suggested for most textile items. Avoid extreme
fluctuations of humidity and temperature levels.
Light
Low light levels or darkness are recommended for textile storage and display
areas. Ultraviolet rays from sunlight and fluorescent lights damage fibers and
cause fading.
Insects
Paradichlorobenzene (PDB) moth crystals will aid in controlling insects.
Place the crystals in a cloth bag or sock at the highest level possible in the
storage closet or cabinet. Use moth crystals only for temporary measures. Avoid
long-term use of PDB and other insecticides as they can react with materials.
The chemical should never come in direct contact with the textiles.
Check for any possible damage to fabrics or colors. WARNING: PDB is toxic
and should be kept out of the reach of children.
Alternatives to using moth crystals are vacuuming to remove both adult
insects and their eggs, freezing the infected textile for two months,
drycleaning or treating in a microwave oven for five minutes. If you use a
microwave, make certain the item has no metal hooks, zippers or buttons.
Pollutants
Ordinary cardboard, paper, metal and wood deteriorate textiles and should not
come in direct contact with textile items. Acids can migrate from wood and paper
to textile items. Layers of acid-free tissue, acid-free mat board or washed,
unbleached 100 percent cotton muslin can be used to protect the textiles and to
line boxes or containers. (Wash the muslin yearly to retain its neutral state.)
Acid-free boxes and acid-free tissue can be purchased from conservation supply
businesses and museums. Avoid colored papers and tissue, such as blue tissue, as
some are not colorfast and can stain textiles if moistened. Protect textiles
from direct contact with wood (especially unsealed wood such as cedar chests).
Avoid storing cotton, linen and rayon in cedar chests, as the acid from the wood
is especially harmful to these fibers. Woods used near or in contact with
textile items can be sealed with polyurethane varnish.
Plastics should not be used for storage of textiles as they may not allow air
circulation and may also give off by-products as they decompose. Moisture
trapped inside tightly sealed plastic bags or boxes can cause mildew to form.
Plastics also attract dust as a result of the static electricity they generate.
Do not smoke around textiles. Nicotine turns fabrics yellow and tar and other
by-products turn them dark gray; all speed up the fading of dyes and weakening
of fibers.
Storage
Avoid storing textiles in attics, basements, kitchens, laundry rooms and
unheated areas. Store items away from outside walls and areas where people
smoke. Plastic and metal parts, buttons and other similar items should be
removed from textiles prior to storage as they may cause stains. Rubberized
shields and foam padding deteriorate with age and may also stain textile items.
Store textile items flat if possible. If items must be folded, use acid-free
tissue or washed unbleached, 100 percent cotton muslin to cushion folds. Re-fold
occasionally to distribute wear. Textile items can also be rolled onto acid-free
cardboard tubes (at least 3 inches in diameter); or, on regular cardboard tubes
wrapped with several layers of acid-free tissue or muslin. Wrap the textile item
loosely around the tube, being careful to avoid creases. Some textile items may
need layers of acid-free tissue or washed, unbleached cotton muslin inserted as
the textile is rolled onto the tube. Quilted items should be rolled with the
topside to the inside.
Fragile items and garments should not be hung. If items are hung, pad the
hanger with polyester fiberfill and cover with washed, unbleached cotton muslin.
To support the weight of heavy garments, use twill tape to take some of the
weight from the shoulder area of the item. Loosely stitch the tape at the waist
and to the hanger. Store with closures fastened. Cover stored textiles with
acid-free tissue or washed, unbleached cotton muslin (washed yearly to prevent
the formation of acids). While polyethelene plastics do not directly damage
fibers, fabric covers are best as they allow air circulation.
Display
Muslin can be attached to the backside of a textile item to protect the item
if it is hung. Attach two layers of twill tape for a casing at the top of the
hanging. Insert a wooden dowel between the layers. Hook and loop tape can also
be used. Attach the hook portion of the tape to a board fastened to the wall.
Attach the loop portion to the textile item across the top of the back side for
even support. Use only on textile items sturdy enough to withstand the weight of
the item. A backing fabric (washed, unbleached cotton muslin) can also be
stretched over a frame and the textile item basted to the backing using white
cotton thread.
When displaying textiles, do not use cellophane tape, double-stick tape,
staples, glue, pins, nails or tacks. All types of writing pens should be kept
away from textiles. Use only pencils when writing or taking notes. Use cloth
measuring tapes and smooth plastic rulers for taking measurements, never metal.
Keep sharp-edged tools such as scissors, rotary cutters, mat knives and seam
rippers on an adjacent table or inside trays or boxes.
Take down textile wall hangings occasionally to allow them to rest. The
stress of continuous hanging strains the warp threads. Hang textile items
smoothly. Folds and creases will cause streaking and fading and can cause
brittle threads to break.
Cleaning
If safe for the textile item, vacuum it to remove loose dirt particles that
can abrade and cut fibers. Vacuum at low suction (open vent slots). Place a
piece of clean tulle or fiberglass screen over the textile item if the item is
fragile or could be damaged or stressed by vacuuming.
Clean old textiles only if the process will not affect the color, shape
or strength of the fabric. Color loss, bleeding, shrinkage and
distortion can result from cleaning; however, the correct choice of cleaning
procedure can protect the fabric by removing materials (foods, grease, etc.)
that attract insect pests. Cleaning old textiles may help rid them of insects
and improve their appearance, in addition to neutralizing the piece.
Wet cleaning (use of water) removes the acid build-up from cotton and linen
textiles and leaves them cleaner and more flexible. Wool and silk are more
difficult to wet clean as they become weakened when wet. To check for
colorfastness, test each color and fabric with several drops of water. Let it
soak in and then blot with a white blotter, tissue or cloth. Test several times
in inconspicuous places. Repeat the procedure for use of a detergent solution.
No hint of color should appear. If any part of the textile item is not
colorfast, do not wet clean it.
Drycleaning can damage fragile textile items. The friction and abrasion of
agitation as well as the heat can damage the item. Solvents used in drycleaning
also remove the oils and waxes in natural fibers. Request the use of fresh or
filtered solvent if you have a textile heirloom drycleaned. It is generally best
if the item is not steamed or pressed after cleaning.
Damaged or weak areas can be strengthened by mending torn places and
providing support for thin areas and stress points. A lightweight sheer fabric
such as crepeline, silk chiffon or silk organza can be loosely stitched over the
area to add stability.
To preserve the condition and extend the life of textile items, keep them as
clean as possible. Cover them with unbleached, 100 percent cotton muslin or with
acid-free tissue paper when you are not using them to keep dust and dirt from
settling. Repeated cleaning is hard on textiles and can shorten their lives
considerably.
Sources for Acid-Free Materials
"The Store," Old State House Museum, 300 W. Markham, Little Rock, AR
72201.
Phone: (501) 324-9685, after 5 p.m. (501) 324-9687.
The Hollinger Corporation, P.O. Box 8360, Fredricksburg, VA 22404.
Light Impressions, 439 Monroe Avenue, Rochester, NY 14607.
TALAS, 213 W. 35th Street, New York, NY 10001-1996.
University Products, Inc., P.O. Box 101, Holyoke, MA 01041.
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